11 – Navigating Cairo

9th Dec, 0040hrs, New Palace Hotel, Cairo
The problem with this hotel room is that it is a bit cold since the underside of the two doorways that lead out to the balcony are not sealed. This also means that mosquitoes are attracted to the warmer room and somehow find their way in. Add to that the fact that it will be way too cold if I do switch on the fan, the end result is that I am mosquito food tonight.

I've taken to all sorts of ways to carry my maps around to help me navigate the streets of Cairo. I have a tourist map in my pouch, cartoonish but all the street names are there. I don't want to lug my thick LP around, so i'm taking pics of the maps i need with my digicam. I also occasionally bring my netbook. I've gotten access to a softcopy Egypt guide thanks to a traveller i met and i refer to it on my netbook.

The first order of the day would be to visit the Sudanese embassy. With my Letter of Introduction tightly grasped in my hand, I headed down Midan Tahrir. This was the first time I was in Downtown proper, all the while I have been at the northern end around Midan Arabi where this hotel is. Needless to say I got lost, which would be a common occurence over the next couple of days. The Sudanese embassy is a nondescript office. I got in queue, filled up my app with 2 photos, 2 copies of passport, 2 copies of app form, 1 Letter of Introduction and 100 USD. "Come back next day at 10am". Phew, relief as I'll get the visa within 24 hours. I've heard other nationalities wait really long for theirs. Went back to hotel via the Metro (Sadat to Attaba). The good thing about the metro is that it is clear and non-confusing and only 1 EGP any distance. Much less stressful than riding on the Cairo roads in my opinion.

Cairo roads: I'm going to digress a little and talk about the roads. There are always traffic jams. I have taken photos where cars are locked bumper to bumper and everyone is just honking away. The other thing is that no one really follows traffic lights. Cars criss cross junctions and turn into side lanes. Once in a while you have a policeman trying to control traffic at a 4-way junction. Trying to cross the road is like playing frogger. Whenever there is an opening, jump through. The cars (most of them) slow down for you. What i do is not hesitate and just go, sticking down my palm like a primary school kid crossing the road. After a while, it comes naturally.

Around 1pm, off I go again, this time to Islamic Cairo. It is around a 2.5km walk down from Attaba Metro exit where 26th of July ends and Al Azhar road begins. The crowd changes as I walked from Downtown area to Islamic Cairo. Roads get more haphazard. New smells greet me, and the downtown buildings give way to minarets and arches. Found the famed Al-Azhar university and mosque. It's the second oldest continuously running uni in the world. Wandered into the university and even into the buildings. It feels very much like any other uni out there. There's a lot of foreign students too, judging by the number of non-Egyptian faces. Went into the mosque, did my Asar there, and just sat around for a bit admiring the architecture.

After that, crossed the road to check out Khan Al-Khalili. It was all tourists being badgered by vendors. So after a half dozen "laa' shukran"s, i changed direction and headed south instead. I've decided the best way is to do a no thank you and smile. Or if it's an obvious overpriced knick knack i dont need, just add a wink and walk off. Found myself on the road leading to the twin minareted Bab Zuwayla gate. The whole stretch was filled with locals shopping and buying stuff. After which, realised it was already dark, and despite there being a ton more things to see here, I decided to call it a day and head back.

Tomorrow's (8th Dec) agenda would be getting my train tix, going back to the Sudan embassy, and the pyramids. Signing off: Red (aka mosquito food)

ps. if you are reading this from facebook. Do take a look at the actual blog at http://furiouspanda.blogspot.com as well. The header pic is lovely, and the videos actually work over there.

Interlude: Food in Cairo

After more than a week in Egypt, I am finding my way around with the Egyptian street food. Here is a sampling.

Kushairi -  Like i mentioned, i cannot really take too much of this tomato paste, rice, spaghetti, macaroni, lentil combo. Tried it twice (the second time with non-existent minced meat in Dahab for additional 4 EGP!). But it is cheap and filling 3 EGP upwards for small to bigger sized cups.

kushairi - looks like leftover food, but surprisingly filling 

Ta'miyya – This is the Egyptian term for falafel, which is fried chickpeas and fava beans. It tastes great, is filling and cheap. One falafel in a pita is around 1 EGP, add in 0.5 pounds with an egg. I can eat these all day and be happy. Except this one time I was eating one while surfing and the Internet got cut off. Page not found. There I was stumped, with bits of falafel on my shirt. I call it a "Felafel 404" situation.

Shawarma sandwiches – These are a bit like your Subway sandwiches. Meat slices spiced perfectly and stuffed into the french loaf. It's a miracle i have not succumbed to the runs, I had so much of roadside 2 EGP (one in Alex bus station came with great spicy pickle combo) over the first few days when it was all i knew how to order. These days I'm a pro =) Depending on how big your sandwich is, it ranges from 2 to maybe 7 EGP, i think. I've seen shops selling at 20 EGP too.

street shawarma, with torshi

Kofta sandwich – This is similar to the previous, except the kofta is a minced meat spiced and clumped up into sausage shapes. Same price too, and really tasty. Just pop into the shop selling, order yours, pay, get the receipt, and go to the serving counter to exchange for your sandwich.

Hummus – These dips are lovely. Whether with tahina, olive, chick peas, or other dips which are equally tasty though i have no idea what they are. Taken with flatbread.

Bread with cheese – It is just frenchloaf, with dollops of cheese and sugary liquid (jam?) inside. Yummy breakfast at 1 EGP or less.

Rice with milk – This is dessert. Mine was 1.25 from a shop in the wall. Served cold, it is VERY sweet but very satisfying.

Fresh fruit juice – Everywhere juice sellers will serve fresh fruit juice. I've had sugar cane at 1 EGP and orange juice at 3 EGP (tourist trap zone at Islamic Cairo!) They can mix up and there's a special mix of fruits too.

Halawa Bars – This is technically not street food, but it deserves a mention. I am a halawa junkie now. These cost 0.5 EGP and are bought off the grocery marts. After I finished my muesli bars from home, these halawa bars take their place. I have lots in my pack now as emergency food. True, they are meant to be eaten with bread, but packed in these bars, they are so convenient. And fattening (100g contains 469 calories, 183 of those from Fat)

Halawa bars and tahina dip

Bakeries – I 've yet to try them but there are bakeries serving various types of bread all around.

Roasted chicken – I've wanted to try these since Dahab, but never got around to having them. Those in Dahab were apparently overpriced and for the one i wanted to try yesterday in Islamic Cairo, the fella was bugging me with his "5 pounds for a photo" routine...Maybe I'll have pigeon too.

Of course, there's other stuff like shish kebabs, shish tawooks but those everyone knows =)

Here's a good post with pics of some of the above. I never got round to photographing most of the food.

There you have it, a selection of street food i have been gorging myself upon. I daresay i am gaining weight here!

10 – Slow day by the Red Sea

6th Dec, 2000hrs, 7Heaven, Dahab
Did not do much at all. The most exciting thing i did today was to try and bargain for a tshirt that i didn't buy. In the early part of the day, woke up and took a walk north up the coast. Never did have the chance to do that during the last couple days. Took in the early morning sea breeze. In the afternoon, ate a good meal at Napolean's just outside, for a second time we got a "30% discount". But the food was good, for 25 EGP, we get hummus for starters, rice and meat, plus desert and drinks. 930Pm, bade farewell to the crew at 7Heaven. They all seem to be linked. The 7Heaven Hotel, the Dives Down Under outfit, the Internet shop beside it, the tour agency near the exit and the Seven Heaven Chinese Restaurant. Off I go back to Cairo. Busy few days coming up.

The bus from Dahab is 90 EGP (plus the hotel does transfers to the bus station for 10 EGP extra, and you need it cos it is quite far away) but it drops you at Abbassiya station in Cairo, which is in the middle of nowhere for travellers. Ask to drop at the city center (downtown).

Finally, here's a video of Siwa town by dusk that I managed to upload.

9 – Cleaner wrasse in your mouth? Check.

5th Dec, 2250hrs, 7Heaven, Dahab.

This morning went out really early for 2 dives. One to the Canyon and the second to the infamous dive site the Blue Hole. The journey there, 6 km north out of Dahab, passes by exciting terrain. The landscape is desolate yet beautiful. Our pickup cuts through the road. On the right side, is the great expanse of the Red Sea. On the left jagged mountains flank the desert road. Every few minutes, we will pass a train of camels, with their Bedouin owners, going down the coast. I regret not bringing my camera along for the dive...missed a lot of great landscape shots during the ride. Let's see if I can any pics from the guys on my dive, will upload if so.

Dive prep. All shore dives, and there no beach, you jump in, it's the reef!

The first dive was around 30m deep, into the Canyon. Lionfish, a scorpionfish and the highlight was cleaner wrasse cleaning out my mouth after i took out my regulator. Ticklish. The second dive was into the Blue Hole. I only did 14m, though this spot is Dahab's most famouse dive spot, because it is an 80m deep hole, with an opening at 65m deep into the ocean. There have been casualties with deep divers who try to exit the 65m opening and either got lost, disoriented or get extreme narcossis.

Donkeys in Siwa, now camels in Dahab

Finished the dive just in time for lunch. Amazingly, after factoring in 160 SGD for my dives over the past couple days, i am still within budget overall. Also, the price for Open Water is 200 USD here, based on what the dormmates tell me.

I am meeting all sorts of characters here. People working in UN in Congo, students on gap year, farmers. Today I'm hanging out with Simon from Hong Kong, who joined my dorm today. Had dinner together (25 EGP) and walked down from Masbat to Mashraba area. Basically it has been very much a traveler's meeting point, so many nationalities in one location.

One more night here, then I leave tomorrow night. Cannot get too comfortable with the laid-backness of Dahab. I fear I may just cancel the rest of the itinerary and just stay here. In the meantime, I'm going to sleep in tomorrow morning. Hahaha.

8 – DnD (or Diving in Dahab)

4rd Dec, 2130hrs, 7Heaven Dorms, Dahab
Firstly, i will start by complaining about the terrible internet connection here. For which I paid 15 EGP (for 24hrs). It is very slow when it does decide to work. So i doubt I will even get this posted tonight.

Took the all-nighter from Cairo to Dahab (90 EGP, 1230am, 9 hrs). This time I was prepared and armed with my overnight bus cold weather gear. Found the Turgoman Garage (the old place now replaced by a spanking new mall, with bus station underneath) with much difficulty.

Delightful - Dahab beachfront

Reached Dahab at 9am, diving mecca, Koh Samui of Egypt, are amongst it's many accolades. It was still empty in the morning, but telltale signs abound that Dahab beach is catered for tourists. Walked up and down for a decent place to stay, preferably with wifi. =). And promptly found 7Heaven, with  it's adjoining Dives Down Under outfit. Took a bed in the dorm (20EGP) and signed up for 24hrs wireless (15 EGP, which I probably will not renew thereafter). The crowd there are like more than 50% Asians. Apparently, Dahab is on all the Japanese and South Korean versions of LP travel guidebooks and they recommend 7Heaven Hotel/Camp.

Dumped by bag in the dorm. I am tired from the overnight travel. Then went to check out the dive prices. It was quite affordable really, with 30 to 40 USD per dive (120 for a 4 dives package and cheaper as you do more) with full gear included. I had to go for a refresher dive (40 USD), which is probably a good idea, since I have never dived with two wetsuits, 11kg on my weightbelt, and in very salty water. All dives are shore dives. Some lionfish, pipefish, goatfish. Nothing spectacular so far, maybe I have been too spoilt by Indonesian waters. Too bad I did not bring my underwater camera casing, but it's just not worth the hassle, especially if I'm only diving this once.

The entire scene at the dive shop seems like a United Nation of sorts. Egyptian, Japanese, Hong Kongers, Europeans, and even one other Singaporean. I met Sean who was in Egypt for 16 days, last two days now. Feels good to switch to Singlish =). Had dinner at Napoleon Place just outside (25 EGP) with him. He's leaving on the night bus.

Decadence (& this cool Chinese guy works in Congo!)

Tomorrow I will do a couple of dives. Day after I intend to just relax. Like i said, I need to slow things down, and Dahab seems like the perfect place to do so. For once, I am sitting around in t-shirt and shorts, but not shiver, albeit it was still cold temp, but at least there was some sun.